Words by Alex Fisher
WHET MY APPETITE. Recently taken over by new owners, this family-run hotel has two restaurants, Karrek and The Brasserie, overseen by executive chef Guy Owen, previously at The Idle Rocks. Karrek is the fine dining option, offering a tasting menu from £65pp Thurs-Sat, while The Brasserie offers excellent casual dining at a more affordable price. In good weather you can sit outside on a beautiful terrace with bee-friendly planting, and enjoy two courses for £27.50.
WHAT’S ON THE MENU? The contemporary menu makes use of great local produce. I started with teriyaki mackerel, served with cucumber, wasabi and puffed rice (pictured) which was a delight to look at, and I loved the added texture of the puffed rice. The fish was cooked perfectly, the combination of flavours and textures elevating our simple, sustainable mackerel to new heights. For main, I enjoyed roast hake in morgy broth with confit fennel, with my friend choosing gurnard with ’nduja butter, new potatoes and pickled lemon. I recommend green beans with feta and hazelnuts as a side dish, but there is also a tempting spring cabbage dish with garlic and almonds.
HOW’S THE MOOD? Although it is a hotel restaurant, it welcomes guests and non-guests alike. The décor is smart, but relaxed, and when we visited it was sunny and we were lucky enough to be able to sit outside. The Brasserie is child-friendly, offering a separate menu with ice-cream sundaes that were certainly being enjoyed on the table next door!
The Brasserie, St Enodoc Hotel, Cornwall
CAN I SEE THE SEA? There are views of the Camel Estuary from the terrace, you can also see the hotel pool and gardens.
WHAT’S THE DAMAGE? Two courses cost £27.50, three courses cost £35, or order individual dishes, with starters from around about £9 and mains ranging from a vegan burger at £16 to Cote de Boeuf with Bearnaise and mushroom for two to share priced at £90. If you visit between April and September for Saturday lunch, there is a completely different barbecue menu, priced at £45pp. On Sundays, expect a traditional Sunday lunch.
OPENING TIMES? Open for lunch from 12-2.15 pm and for dinner from 6-8.45pm. To book, call 01208 863394 or visit enodoc-hotel.co.uk.
