The Helford is an amazing and varied stretch of water in Cornwall which offers so many opportunities to home buyers seeking their dream place to live.
Often overlooked by visitors making a beeline for the coast, the Helford River is one of Cornwall’s forgotten corners, a peaceful place of secluded coves and wooded creeks, glorious gardens and incredible wildlife, and dinky fishing villages huddled along the water’s edge — a complete contrast to the rugged cliffs and crashing surf found along much of the Duchy’s coastline.
Meandering for over five miles from its headwaters in Gweek in the west to its mouth at Mawnan in the east, the flooded Helford river valley is lined with ancient oak forests and towering Scots pine (it’s one of the few places in the UK where woodland meets the sea).
Small villages and sleepy hamlets border the banks, and there are dozens of gently sloping beaches dotted along the rocky shore, some of them tiny slices of sand and shingle that disappear completely at high tide. On a bright summer’s day, with sailing boats anchored on the glassy water and the heady smell of warm pine in the air, you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in the Mediterranean.
For centuries, artists and writers have been inspired by the Helford’s ‘drowsy beauty’ (as Daphne du Maurier put it). It’s hard to believe that the river was once a thriving trading hub, where vessels laden with merchandise, from lace to tobacco, navigated the tidal waters up to the Customs House in Gweek. The tangle of tributaries and hidden coves were favoured by smugglers and pirates who used the tides to bring contraband up the creeks, earning the Helford the nickname ‘Stealford’.
Cross the river from Helford Passage on its northern banks to Helford village to the south via the passenger ferry (thought to have been operating since medieval times) and it’s remoter still. Here, on the northern fringes of the Lizard Peninsula, it’s all about exploring the wooded creeks by the river mouth, such as St Anthony and Gillan, or Frenchman’s Creek further west, immortalised in du Maurier’s novel of the same name.
But for all its otherworldly beauty and remoteness, there’s a real buzz about the Helford, with its thriving village communities, great places to eat and drink, and art and culture on offer in nearby Falmouth.
WHERE TO BUY
To the north, a string of pretty honeypot villages dot the shoreline, including Helford Passage, home to the 16th-century Ferryboat Inn, and Port Navas, with its yacht club and lovely quayside. There’s a mix of traditional stone cottages, modern bungalows and larger detached properties — interspersed with the occasional architectural showstopper.
Heading a mile or two inland is a clutch of popular villages, including Mawnan Smith, which is closest to the river mouth, and Constantine and Gweek, all of which have good primary schools and/or preschools, popular pubs and cafes, and village shops. South Helford is quieter and more secluded, the main settlement being Helford, a picture-postcard village with thatched cottages and whitewashed terraces on the riverside.
HOW MUCH?
On the north Helford, prices tend to be highest closest to the river and further east towards Mawnan Smith, where the proximity to Falmouth means better connections. Over the past year, the majority of sales in the Helford area were detached properties, selling for an average of £706,500 in Mawnan Smith, £681,077 in Constantine, £800,978 in Port Navas, £524,167 in Gweek and £572,875 in Manaccan on the south side for the river.
TRAVEL LINKS
The A30 brings you to Truro; from here it’s about a 30-minute drive to Helford Passage. The main transport hubs are Falmouth (east of the river mouth) and Helston (west of the river). The north Helford is better connected — Falmouth’s train station (a 20-minute drive from Helford Passage) has hourly mainline services from Truro to London.
There’s an hourly bus service connecting Falmouth and Helston via Mawnan Smith, Constantine and Gweek. To access the secluded south Helford area there’s a bus between Helston and Gillan at the mouth of the river via Helford and Manaccan, though it’s much less regular. The nearest train station for the south Helford area is Redruth, which is a 45-minute drive from Helford village.
SCHOOLS/UNIVERSITY
There are a number of good primary schools in the Helford area, including Constantine and Mawnan Smith in the north, and Manaccan in the south; all have preschools, too. Gweek is home to a forest school, the Zelda School, for children aged 2-7.
For secondary schools, Falmouth and Penryn both have popular schools, whilst Helston and Mullion (on the Lizard) serve the south Helford. Both Falmouth and Helston have sixth forms, otherwise it’s a commute to the outstanding-rated Truro and Penwith College.
For independent schools Truro, Cornwall’s only city, has several good options, including the co-ed Truro School, Truro High School for Girls, and Polwhele on the outskirts of the city. Falmouth is also home to Falmouth university, specialising in the creative industries, which shares a campus in Penryn with an outpost of the prestigious University of Exeter.
FACILITIES
The Tolmen Centre is a community arts venue in Constantine and hosts an impressive programme of music, theatre and cinema throughout the year. Port Navas has a popular yacht club with a bar and restaurant whilst the larger villages further inland — Mawnan Smith, Constantine and Gweek — have shops, post offices and pubs.
Gweek also has a working boatyard with chandlery, boat-building and repairs, and moorings available over the summer months. Falmouth and Helston are the places to go for supermarkets, libraries, secondary schools, art and culture, shopping, and places to eat and drink.
REALITY CHECK
Part of the Helford’s off-the-beaten-track charm is also one of its potential setbacks for people looking to move to the area. With few main roads into the area and a network of single-track country lanes linking villages and communities, it may not suit those that need to commute out of the area on a daily basis, though the closer to Falmouth or the A394 you are, the easier it will be.
Public transport is also a factor, with limited services in the area, particularly south of the river. As with many of Cornwall’s coastal areas, the second homes problem is such that those looking to buy in the area should consider making it a permanent move.
TIME OUT
Pretty coves such as Grebe, neighbouring Durgan and Bosahan Cove on the opposite bank are perfect for swimming and snorkelling, but to really appreciate the beauty of the river it’s best explored from the water. Koru Kayaking runs guided paddleboard and kayak trips from a private beach downriver, or you can go wildlife spotting with Helford River Cruises. If you’re after something a bit different, opt for a heart-thumping RIB ride with August Rock Adventures.
The South West Coast Path hugs the river for about five miles, crossing the water between Helford in the south and Helford Passage, where it continues on its way to Falmouth. It’s one of the most tranquil sections of the entire 630-mile route, with several waterside pubs (the Ferryboat Inn and Shipwrights Arms are particular favourites) and quayside cafes along the route where you can watch the world sail by. Or head inland to Potager Kitchen near Constantine, a vegetarian cafe housed in the beautiful converted greenhouses of a former plant nursery.
With its own microclimate, the Helford is also home to stunning subtropical gardens, such as Trebah and the National Trust’s Glendurgan Garden, whose lush valleys filled with rare plant species tumble down to the water’s edge. Gweek is home to the Cornish Seal Sanctuary, where rescued seals and pups are cared for before being released back into the sea.
If some R&R is on the agenda, book into the day spa at Budock Vean Hotel on the banks of the river, or head to the beautiful Retallack Woodland Quarry Spa with its spring-fed swimming lake, wood-fired hot tub and sauna.
Just a short hop away is the maritime hub of Falmouth where you can tap into a brilliant live music scene (check out the Cornish Bank), eat in award-winning restaurants, browse the boutiques and indies hidden amongst the cobbled streets and kick back on the town’s beautiful sandy beaches.
STAY BEFORE YOU BUY
Budock Vean Hotel
This hotel and restaurant is one of the Helford’s finest, with spa, pool, golf course and 65 acres of glorious gardens that reach down to the river. Choose from a selection of rooms and suites — the best have views over the gardens — or opt for one of their contemporary wood-clad holiday homes or cosy cottages. budockvean.co.uk
Kestle Barton
Within striking distance of Frenchman’s Creek, Kestle Barton is home to six cottages housed in the converted barns of an ancient Cornish farmstead. There’s an art gallery and tea room, and beautiful gardens to wander around, too. kestlebarton.co.uk
The Shipwrights Arms
The four newly-refurbished rooms next to one of the Helford’s prettiest creekside pubs have gorgeous interiors, stylish en-suites and unbroken views of the river through huge picture windows. Pop next door for food — the pub has a lovely sun terrace for fine weather. shipwrights-helford.co.uk
WHAT YOU CAN GET FOR YOUR MONEY
Here are some of our favourite Helford area properties for sale:
THREE-BEDROOM COTTAGE (£349,950)
On a small terrace in the heart of the village of Constantine with primary school, pub and shops, this granite cottage has three bedrooms, a living room with cosy log burner and shaker-style kitchen with slate floor. To the rear there’s a secluded raised lawn area with patio. rightmove.co.uk/properties/148227404#/?channel=RES_BUY
RECENTY REFURBISHED (GUIDE PRICE £450,000)
With views over Gweek’s working boatyard and the Helford River beyond, this comfortable, recently refurbished bungalow has three bedrooms and a light, open-plan living room. Outside there’s a pretty enclosed patio with mature shrubs, a detached garage and off-road parking to the front for one car. oliversestateagents.com/2024/06/03/gweek-guide-price-450000/
BEAUTIFULLY RENOVATED (OFFERS OVER £875,000)
Just a few minutes’ walk from Helford village, the river and the popular Shipwrights Arms, this handsome, detached property has been beautifully renovated and includes four bedrooms, a 19-foot long drawing room and beautiful gardens of around a quarter of an acre. lillicrapchilcott.com/property-details/sales/9980
FAR-REACHING VIEWS (GUIDE PRICE £950,000)
On the edge of Mawnan Smith village with far-reaching views over the surrounding countryside, this detached house has five spacious bedrooms, one with a private balcony, plus a huge living/breakfast room, two garages and a south-facing patio bordered by mature shrubs. lillicrapchilcott.com/property-details/sales/10028
