Helen Dugdale visits a perfectly formed coastal village, Aberdyfi, that offers everything for the ideal weekend retreat…
Aberdyfi (also spelt Aberdovey), meaning the mouth of the River Dyfi, is an unassuming coastal village tucked away in Gwynedd, located on the estuary. A popular holiday destination since Victorian times, it is often described as ‘the place where the Welsh mountains meet the sea’, as it lies at the southern end of the Snowdonia National Park.
The popular four-mile sandy beach is great for whatever the Welsh weather bestows on you, no matter if it is water sports, a stroll or a barbecue.
The southern shore of Aberdfyi, along the Dyfi estuary, is part of the UNESCO Dyfi Biosphere and the Dfyi National Nature Reserve and attracts an abundance of wildlife, including the magnificent osprey and sand lizards, Wales’ rarest reptiles, which you may spot in the golden dunes.
As you enter the village down the A493, this coastal road takes you past a row of attractive multi-coloured terraced houses. On one side of the road is the blue expanse of water, while in total contrast on the other side are steep hills which turn into the typical rugged green Welsh countryside and sheep farms. At the centre of this resort is the river and seafront that is built around the original harbour, jetty and beach.
Aberdyfi is less than 100 miles from the West Midlands and around three hours from Manchester. Being located within the Snowdonia National Park makes it an excellent location if you’re looking for a place to stay whilst climbing Mount Snowdon. It is also a great place to escape if you’re craving the north Wales coast but without the crowds of Abersoch or Anglesey.
In the 1800s Aberdyfi was a busy port exporting slate and oak bark. The railway was introduced to the town in 1863 and today provides a scenic journey, operated by Great Western Railway. The first lifeboat arrived in 1837 and was taken over by the RNLI in 1853. In 2023 the lifeboat launched seven times.
As you’d expect in Wales, most of the things on the ‘do list’ in Aberdyfi are activities based around the beach, including windsurfing, kitesurfing, paddleboarding, canoeing and sailing. Aberdyfi’s Rowing Club rows in the Dyfi estuary and Cardigan Bay and takes part in races all round the coast of Wales and internationally.
For paddleboarding enthusiasts or beginners, Let’s Up offers lessons and tours based in and around Aderdfyi and Tywyn. All sessions are led by qualified and experienced Water Skills Academy SUP instructors. (letssup.co.uk)
Dovey Yacht Club also organises dinghy races throughout the season on the estuary. (doveyyachtclub.org.uk)
If you’d like to spend time getting to know the creatures that live in the water, then opt for some fishing and crabbing, which are locally available to do.
Prefer your sport on dry land? Then head to the Aberdyfi Golf Course which is open to non-members. Sitting just next door is the Aberdyfi Football Club, which boasts one of the most picturesque football pitches in the whole of mid-Wales.
If you fancy quenching your passion for culture whilst in Aberdyfi, then head to Tallyn just a short four-mile drive away, and catch the latest films being screened at Magic Lantern Cinema, the independent picture house.
WHERE TO STAY
For a spot of luxury and pampering for your time in Aberdyfi, then look no further than the Trefeddian Hotel. Owned and run by the Cave-Browne-Cave family for over 100 years, the hotel mixes the perfect ingredient of family traditions whilst also catering for the demanding modern guests who are craving relaxing coastal getaways.
Sitting pretty on a hilltop between the southern Snowdonia mountains and the Cambrian coastline, with unspoilt panoramic sea views, the hotel has a string of impressive awards to its name and describes itself as ‘still believing in good old-fashioned hospitality’.
With 59 rooms, guests can choose from a sea view looking out over Cardigan Bay or a hill view, the latter taking in the delights of the hotel’s kitchen garden, where fresh produce is grown and picked for diners to enjoy. Guests can also decide whether to have a superior, family or an accessibility room to make their stay memorable.
Or if you’re looking for the luxury of a hotel but the independence that self-catering can bring the Trefeddian Hotel has two luxurious properties in the grounds available for hire. Each comes with a smart kitchen and dining area and a private glass-fronted balcony and includes the use of the hotel facilities, which include a swimming pool, putting green and tennis courts. (trefwales.com)
If you’re looking for something different, a property with bags of character that has the environment at its heart, then stay at The Willow Hill, which is set on the hill about a 20-minute climb or a quick five-minute drive from the main street.
Each of the three unique pods at The Willow Hill offers a truly secluded and private getaway. Tucked away on the hillside covered in grass they’re relatively incognito from the road, and the floor-to-ceiling glass windows offer unrivalled views of Aberdyfi, the bay and the mountains.
Each pod has a contemporary design with high-spec appliances, underfloor heating and electric blinds, which creates a clever feeling of earthy opulence. The living and dining areas are both smart and fashionable and a place you’ll want to hang out after a day hiking, spent on the beach or the golf course.
Whichever pod you choose, step onto the patio area and you’ll be greeted by an inviting hot tub. Whether you watch the sunrise or sunset or take a dip midday the view will likely be breath taking. The silence of the countryside is punctured only by the call of the seagulls and the chatter of the sheep or lambs in nearby farmers’ fields.
Even when all the pods are in use, the clever design and vast size of the terrace mean your neighbours don’t intrude on your enjoyment or feeling of being truly at one with life in the countryside and by the coast. (towanderuk.co.uk/properties/the-willow-hill/)
DINING OUT
For a small town with a population of around 500, Aberdyfi spoils its visitors with the number of delightful places to head for food and drink. To kick start the day with a coffee and tasty breakfast then try Coast on the Go and choose from their breakfast in a box deal or deli sandwiches. And if you’re super organised why not order a picnic bag for the next day that will be freshly prepared and waiting for you to grab and go?
Depending on how hungry you are when lunch rolls around, you could head to the family and dog-friendly Dovey Inn, which offers down-to-earth hearty pub grub. After a long morning on the beach the veggie chilli is ideal for vegetarians and the gammon steak and chips is a pleaser for carnivores.
For a dessert, why not stroll down the high street and sample a sweet treat from Aberdyfi Ice Cream Company? Give yourself enough time to choose from their extensive flavours of ice cream and sorbets. A picture with the pink cow is a must for Instagram fans.
As evening rolls around, if the good old sea air is demanding you refuel again, it is decision time. Will it be the classic fish and chips on the beach from the only chippie in the town – Walkers – which is helpfully open 12-8 pm, seven days per week. It’s takeout only so, grab your order and stroll across the road to the beach or head back to your accommodation.
Or for pizza lovers then The Sandwich Shop bakes some delights in the evening and is a welcome treat. The salads also come highly recommended.
NOT TO BE MISSED…
Dolgoch Falls is a hidden gem near Tywyn and Aberdyfi, a series of three waterfalls that are well worth making the trip. The hiking distance is a roughly 1½-mile round trip, and it takes around 60-90 minutes to complete. The terrain is steep and is uphill most of the way to the highest waterfall. The walk is well signposted and there is a car park for visitors. talyllyn.co.uk/plan/things-to-do/dolgoch-falls/
Talyllyn Railway is an ideal spot to visit whilst on your weekend break. Originally built in 1866, it is the world’s first preserved railway and runs 7.25 miles through the Welsh countryside. A thriving tourist attraction, it means that you can experience the joy of riding a steam train. And why not take the train to Dolgoch Falls? talyllyn.co.uk/plan/things-to-do/
Fancy a walk? There are plenty of routes in and around Aberdyfi. The popular circular trail takes you through some of the village’s most scenic spots, is around five miles and can take up to two hours. visitmidwales.co.uk/things-to-do/aberdyfi-circular-walk-off-the-wales-coast-path-p1740701
