Andy Cooper heads to Conwy – a very special part of the Welsh coast – for an exploration of history and heritage.
I do love a good castle. That sense of history seeming to be all around you, often together with some impressive building techniques which wouldn’t look out of place today, make them a place of wonder for me. And in Conwy they do ‘do’ a great castle.
I say this having just returned from a magical few days exploring the coast in the region. Nestled between Eryri National Park and the Denbigh Moors, Conwy’s ancient land boats scenery, adventure, myth and legend.
And when it comes to castles the town of Conwy boasts just about the pinnacle, in my view. Even before I had reached it the approach was pretty impressive. Standing proud and dominant over this charming coastal town, the castle is a truly outstanding sight.
You approach on a modern bridge alongside the Conwy Suspension Bridge leading to the castle, an impressive enough construction in itself. This 99.5m-long, Grade I-listed bridge was one of the first road suspension bridges in the world, built by Thomas Telford from 1822-1826.
Park up and wander round the walls of the 13th century castle and it just gets better. It was built on the site of a former Cistercian monastery and is one of the most magnificent medieval fortresses in the country, towering imposingly over the town.
The castle was, remarkably, built in under four years by King Edward I and his architect Master James of St George. This includes time taken to build the unbroken 1.3km ring of town walls which lend Conwy added wow factor. Everywhere you turn there is an ancient fortress wall to marvel at.
I climbed spiral staircases to walk the battlements and take in the superb vistas over Snowdonia. Conwy Castle is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and takes its place alongside Edward’s other beautiful castles at Beaumaris, Harlech and Caernarfon.
After a couple of hours exploring the castle it was time for me to head to a nearby building on a somewhat different scale – the UK’s smallest house, Quay House, on the waterfront in the town. This one up, one down cottage was built in the 16th century, measuring just 72 inches across, 122 inches high and 120 inches deep.
The last tenant, Robert Jones, a six foot three inches tall Conwy fisherman, lived in the house for 15 years until 1900 – rumour has it his feet came out the window when he was in bed. His landlord – also Robert Jones – toured the country with the editor of the local newspaper to measure every other small house to confirm that it was, indeed, the smallest house in the country and should be saved. It’s now made the Guinness Book of Records but has been officially condemned too small for human habitation.
From the quayside in Conwy there are views out over the scenic Conwy Bay shoreline and across the estuary towards the towering Great Orme headland. It’s a delightful spot to just sit awhile and watch the world go by.
Conwy’s rich history is further exemplified with a visit to Plas Mawr (Great Hall). It is described as ‘the finest surviving Elizabethan townhouse anywhere in Britain’. It was built for just £200 between 1576 and 1585. It has been a courthouse, a school and an art gallery.
On day two of my visit it was time to roam Llandudno, the jewel in the coastal crown of north Wales’s seaside towns. Families have been heading to the resort for generations, to sample the Victorian esplanade’s charm. You can see why as you amble along its impressive curved waterfront, buildings looking for all the world like they must have done to the holidaymakers who first flocked there.
I also took a stroll along Llandudno Pier, which stretches 2,295 feet into the Irish Sea – it’s Wales’ longest pier and the fifth longest in the UK – an impressive structure and well worth the walk to the end for the views of the town beyond.
I then headed to Victoria Station to step aboard The Great Orme Tramway, which is Britain’s only funicular, or cable-hauled, tramway. A regular ride takes 20 minutes to climb 1,500m up to the summit, where it’s possible to see as far as the Isle of Man, Blackpool and the Lake District.
Having taken in much of what the town had to offer, my next destination was Bodnant Gardens near Colwyn Bay just up the coast. Here I found 80 acres of Grade I-listed formal gardens, shrub-filled glades, meadows and woods, dells and water gardens, allowing me to spend my afternoon strolling through luscious gardens with sprawling lawns, grand terraces and towering woodland.
And keeping with the magical theme, next I made my way to Fairy Glen Nature Reserve, a 15-minute drive from Conwy town. This protected local nature reserve is a densely wooded valley, with plenty of bridges to cross.
A most enjoyable conclusion to my whirlwind, whistlestop tour which had me aiming to ‘go west’ again before too long.
Andy was a guest of Visit Conwy as part of its Welcoming Winter campaign, which aims to promote the adventure awaiting those who choose to travel Conwy in the winter months, from adrenaline fuelled activities to hikes, beaches, and historical trails. org.uk/things-to-do/dont-miss-winter-highlights
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
For my stay in Conwy I was based at Escape Boutique B&B. This wonderful Victorian, family-run accommodation has just celebrated 20 years of being open and you can see why. It’s a charming building with great views overlooking the bay and has been lovingly restored whilst also remaining in keeping with its history.
I had a fabulously spacious room which truly offered the best of views east and west and each morning’s breakfast sent me off for the day fully fuelled for adventure. escapebandb.co.uk
Once hunger pangs eventually set in, on my first evening I headed close by to The Goat at The Esplanade Hotel for dinner. The Goat is a recent, modern addition to the resplendent promenade and is a fantastic spot for a lovely meal in excellent surroundings with good service from the team. thegoat-llandudno.co.uk
For dinner on my second evening, I took the short drive to Porth Eirias in Colwyn Bay. Celebrity chef Bryn Williams’ Porth Eirias is his much-acclaimed bistro, named AA Restaurant of the year for Wales Award for 2019/20. It has retained the Bib Gourmand by Michelin for a third year. There you can choose from relaxed dishes created from the freshest, most local produce, with seafood star of the show. portheirias.com
A MEAL TO REMEMBER
The dining highlight of my visit was dinner at The Jackdaw by Nick Rudge in Conwy. Jackdaw (jac-do in Welsh) features in the Michelin Guide and is the nickname given to a person born within the walls of Conwy town and means blackbird – lots of them call the castle walls home!
Llandudno native, proprietor and head chef Nick rose through the ranks at the Fat Duck and offers a sublime menu of glorious local Welsh produce and complementary flavour combinations.
In a nice touch, wines are listed by how far away they were produced from Conwy, as the jackdaw flies. It certainly made for a talking point…and so did the fabulous array of texture and taste combinations brought to our table by the attentive team. Tit was truly standout dining in superb surroundings. thejackdawconwy.co.uk
ISLE BE BACK…
It would be remiss when so close in Conwy not to detour at some point and take The Menai Suspension Bridge and pop across to Anglesey, the fabulous isle which would in itself be worth a longer stay.
Like a proper tourist I wanted to see for myself the legendary village with the longest name in the UK. The width’s of Coast’s columns precludes printing its 58-letter long full name here, so let’s just go with the shortened version of Llanfair PG. The railway station sign featuring the full name is certainly very selfie worthy!
I enjoyed my brief stopover on Anglesey, with its compelling mix of beaches, castles and ancient monuments, and would recommend it highly as a destination for coast lovers.
