There cannot be many hotel arrivals quite like arriving at Hotel Portmeirion. This charming waterside hotel is set within the magical Baroque-style tourist village of Portmeirion in north west Wales which in itself is a magnet for visitors from around the world.
And as the village is one where visitors pay to enter, guests staying at the hotel are treated to a pick-up service from the car park in a golf cart to then be sedately transported through the village to your ultimate destination. And that only adds to the charm – as we wound our way downhill thought the unique streets of the village we marvelled at the distinctive architecture all around us.
The brainchild and passion project of architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, Portmeirion was re-shaped between 1925 and 1975 in the Baroque style and is now owned by a charitable trust. It has served as the location for numerous films and television shows, most famously as “the Village” in the 1960s television show The Prisoner.
So it means you make your way towards this distant western spot through the familiar landscape of Welsh hills and valleys, only to be confronted by something which more resembles an Italian hilltop coastal village on arrival.
And Hotel Portmeirion is simply the best place to base yourself to fully experience the village. As well as its superb location right by the water on a dramatic and beautiful estuary, being a resident means you can wander around the village at your leisure, including when the paying public can no longer gain entrance. That means we were able to enjoy the charms of Portmeirion virtually alone – a very special experience.
The hotel itself keeps up appearances when it comes to matching the surroundings. Decorated and furnished in Edwardian style, the modernisations it has undergone are subtle and in keeping with its history. We loved descending for dinner down the elegant staircase into the wood-panelled lounge area, the smell of an open fire wafting up to greet us, then settling into the comfy leather sofas for a drink before our meal.
What are the rooms like?
Again, the rooms remain in keeping with the surroundings, so furnishings and interior design match the period feel of the hotel, but they have all been brought up to the standard one might expect from a luxury place to stay. Our room had a magnificent view both ways down the estuary and was extremely comfy, with a large bathroom and plenty of space to relax in.
Best sea view?
Apart from those sea-facing bedrooms where the view is a showstopper at any time of the day, the hotel’s nautical-themed dining room features huge windows along a distinctive curved stretch which gives the feel of being on board ship as you gaze out on the horizon beyond.
Or even if you aren’t a resident of the hotel, make the most of its location during your visit to Portmeirion by taking tea – or something a little stronger – on the fabulous patio area, with views not only across the water but also over your shoulder of the glorious and ever impressive sight of the village perched over the estuary.
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How about the food?
Portmeirion’s executive head chef Mark Threadgill and his talented team of chefs, under the supervision of head chef Daniel Griffiths, use the finest local ingredients, including some foraged from the village, to create his unique style of modern-Welsh cuisine while combining traditional French techniques and Japanese flavours. The Dining Room restaurant has two AA Rosettes which it has retained for a number of years and it’s easy to see why when dining there. We feasted on starters of barbecued mackerel, white radish kimchi, pickled cucumber and green apple, plus poached cod, oriental coconut steamed custard, carrot and red Thai curry.
Main courses were even more magnificent – stone bass, roasted pumpkin, teriyaki glazed maitakes mushrooms and Szechuan pepper butter sauce, plus aged Welsh sirloin, braised ox cheek, oyster and bone marrow potato pie, celeriac and black garlic. Thankfully, my notorious sweet tooth allowed me to also squeeze in Poached pear, praline crémeux mille feuille and fig leaf ice cream for dessert.
What will it cost?
Room rates start from £214 per room per night.
How do I book?
Visit portmeirion.wales/stay, call 01766 770000 or email [email protected].
