Rich heritage, outdoor adventures and warm Scottish hospitality blend seamlessly to make Inveraray one of the most charming county towns in Argyll, says Jade Braham…
Serenely perched on the shore of Loch Fyne, Scotland’s longest sea loch, is the historic town of Inveraray. It’s surrounded by undulating glens, softly dusted with snow and expansive skies that unfold into breath taking sunrises and sunsets, awash in hues of deep oranges and gentle lilacs.
The town’s rugged beauty is accentuated by its winding, narrow roads, and the journey here is defined by the dramatic Arrochar Alps, characterised by rocky terrain inhabited by the hardiest of sheep.
This formidable landscape reveals Inveraray’s Highland setting, and in some ways, this has helped the town preserve its historical charm since the 18th century. At this time, the 3rd Duke of Argyll wanted to build a new castle and had grand schemes to improve the town. So, Inveraray was relocated to its current site, which stands today as a beautiful example of an 18th-century planned town.
Today, not much has changed: a bright red fishing boat is anchored in the harbour, adjacent to more vessels, pointing like a compass north west towards a medieval cross and Inveraray Castle. Connecting these sites is the A83, a road that threads past a perfectly symmetrical high street, transforming this corner of Scotland into a vibrant community with a thriving arts scene, a haven for food lovers, and a gateway to some of the country’s best outdoor adventures.
Having decided to explore the high street before heading to our hotel, we park across from the harbour, where a lone seagull slices through the air with a wild, piercing scream. It’s a fittingly untamed welcome, soon softened by the broad smiles and hearty Scottish accents of the locals out for a stroll with their energetic dogs.
To our left is the A83 – Front Street – lined with grand, white-harled buildings featuring distinctive black window and door frames. The uniformity of these elegant facades is alluring, but we bypass it for now, opting instead for a short walk to the Aray Bridge.
The two-arch bridge, built in the 18th century, spans the mouth where the River Aray meets the loch. It provides spectacular views of the pier, Inveraray Castle, and the majestic mountainscape.
From here, we return to Front Street, passing a statue of a Scottish Highlands soldier clutching a rifle. We’re somewhat taken aback by this moving and poignant figure, here to commemorate the townspeople who lost their lives died during the First and Second World Wars. Our initial sense of solemnity soon turns to awe as we approach a 15th-century market cross, bearing intricate carvings and an inscription honouring those who built it.
This ancient cross leads us up Main Street, where the white buildings rise like soldiers standing at ease before their commander – in this case, the imposing, classically designed Glenaray and Inveraray Parish Church.
We continue along the bustling high street, alive with activity from its many independent shops, galleries, and cafes. One of the first we nip into is Sweet Memories, a charming shop whose name aligns perfectly with my belief that every holiday should create special memories – and because who could resist stepping into a traditional sweet shop?
With treats in hand, we head next door to Loch Fyne Whiskies (lochfynewhiskies.com), where you can purchase and savour a wee dram or two. We would stay longer here if it was not for our dinner reservation at The George (thegeorgehotel.co.uk).
At the heart of The George, a 160-year-old, family-run hotel, is the pub, and judging by the packed rooms, with guests spilling into corridors, it’s clearly a local favourite. We’re seated at a sturdy, weathered table with a view of the cocktail bar, its shelves brimming with whiskies and its ceiling draped with twinkling, multi-coloured fairy lights.
The atmosphere is electric, filled with bursts of laughter, likely the result of a well-told tale and a harmonious blend of accents mingling like a choir singing a familiar tune. The menu is brimming with hearty and fresh meals.
With our stomachs full, we head to the Loch Fyne Hotel & Spa. Before turning in for the night, we enjoy a hot brew accompanied by the sweets we bought earlier, savouring the last moments of a perfect day.
The next day dawns in a magnificent display of colour, and we’re up early for a tranquil walk along the lochside. Just outside our hotel is a slight stretch of pebble and seaweed-covered beach, where a brave wild swimmer silently emerges from the loch’s depths. For a moment, we all pause, captivated by the sun as it rises behind snow-capped mountains, turning the white peaks into burnt orange.
As the sun climbs higher, the oranges and yellows fade, and I walk to Inveraray Jail (inverarayjail.co.uk). Built in the 19th century to replace the old, poorly designed jail from which prisoners frequently escaped, this former prison operated for almost 70 years and now serves as a museum. Inside, we learn about the harsh realities of life behind bars, meet costumed characters, and explore the old building.
We don’t linger long, as our morning is earmarked for Inveraray Castle (inveraray-castle.com). This impressive building has graced Loch Fyne since the 1400s and now sports a stunning blend of Palladian, baroque and Gothic architectural styles. The imposing fortress is the ancestral home of the Duke of Argyll, Chief of the Clan Campbell.
The castle was initially sketched and designed by Sir John Vanbrugh, the architect behind Blenheim Palace. It was later constructed as part of the 3rd Duke of Argyll’s rebuilding project, using a design crafted by architects William Adam and Roger Morris. Taking a staggering 43 years to complete, its most impressive features -the conical roofs on the towers – were only added after a devastating fire in 1877.
We wander through the ground floor, passing the Armoury Hall filled with historic weaponry, which completely contrasts with the elegant Tapestry Drawing Room and State Dining Room furnishings.
From there, we ascend to the first floor and browse rooms with personal objects like family portraits, discovering stories about several ghosts said to haunt these walls. Our visit continues to the basement, which allows us to explore life ‘below stairs’.
Afterwards, we male a beeline for the woodland trail, climbing 248 metres up to Dun Na Cuaiche, passing an ornate bridge, manicured lawn and pristine fields. Eventually, we reach the top, where a watchtower stands like a silent sentinel overlooking Inveraray.
We quickly snap out of our reverie, mindful that the sun will set soon, and we have plans to visit one of Scotland’s most photographed castles. Just a 20-minute drive north, Kilchurn Castle (historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/kilchurn-castle) looms into view, casting formidable shadows over Loch Awe. As its name suggests, the sight leaves us speechless – it’s profoundly dramatic, with dark, still waters reflecting the castle’s crumbling walls backed by the rugged slopes of the mountains.
Despite centuries of change, its formidable walls have largely withstood the test of time — much like Inveraray itself. With its vibrant community, rich history, and countless attractions, I smile to think Inveraray is set to enchant travellers for generations to come.
Where to stay
Crerar-run and dog-friendly Loch Fyne Hotel & Spa offers an idyllic waterfront location, calm interiors, roaring fires, an AA-Rosette-awarded bistro, and an enviable spa with staggering views. Rates vary depending on availability. (01499 302980, crerarhotels.com/loch-fyne-hotel-spa)
The Brambles of Inveraray offers a warm Scottish welcome with cosy rooms boasting unique features like roll-top baths, and traditional Scottish cuisine for breakfast and lunch. King Room from £95 per night (01499 302252, inverarayhotel.com)
The George Hotel is a 160-year-old, multi-award-winning establishment on Inveraray’s high street, boasting antique-filled rooms, an AA Rosette restaurant and an 18th-century pub serving over 500 whiskies. Rates vary depending on availability. (01499 302111, thegeorgehotel.co.uk)
