Weekend in… Bantry

The Atlantic coastline of West Cork has for decades attracted artists, writers and craftspeople, their work inspired by the rugged surroundings, tranquillity and quality of light. Since 1998, when the Slow Food Movement took hold, it has also become a foodie haven, winning awards for its artisan breads, cheeses, seafood and meat.

At the heart of the region is Bantry, a town of 4,000 people that swells during the West Cork Literary Festival, now in its 15th year and with a new artistic director, poet Nell Regan. Sandwiched between the Chamber Music and the Masters of Tradition festivals, the week-long sessions of readings, conversations with authors and writing workshops promote Irish and global literature.

Bantry is part of the Wild Atlantic Way, a new coastal driving route that starts in Kinsale, south of Cork city, and ends 1,500 miles further north at Malin Head in County Donegal (familiar to listeners of the Shipping Forecast). Walkers, sailors, kayakers and windsurfers all converge on the coast and islands around Bantry Bay, where kittiwakes, gannets and choughs cling to the cliffs, and whales and dolphins can be spotted in the churning sea below.

SATURDAY AM

10AM COFFEE AND CRAFTS
Fortified with a full Irish breakfast, I set off to explore, starting at the brightly painted houses along the bay, where swans and ducks drift peacefully by, lobster creels are piled high on the quayside, and a statue of St Brendan the Navigator blesses the fishing boats that supply the town’s restaurants. Wolfe Tone Square is named after the leader of the United Irishmen who, with a French fleet, attempted in vain to launch a rebellion against the British from here in 1796.

With the area’s reputation for high-quality crafts in mind, I dive into The Craft Shop on Glengarriff Road and find a great range of leather goods, basketware, jewellery and pottery. While I ponder on a purchase, I refuel with a flat white at Organico nearby, a café that is also a bakery and health food shop. It’s tempting to linger as they chalk up the lunchtime menu of homemade falafels, courgette and mint and split pea soup, served with spelt bread, summer tart of roasted cherry tomatoes and feta.

SATURDAY PM

12PM SHOPPING!
Traditional signwriting is prominent on Bantry shopfronts, giving the streets colour and character. The absence of chain stores is a joy, and the smallest window can lead to a treasure-trove of finds such as pure Aran wool for crafting projects at Knitwell Wools, where you can also buy hand-knitted garments worthy of designer labels. There are old-fashioned department stores with old-fashioned personal service, and sportswear shops selling everything you need for watersports, walking or climbing while you’re here.

My lunch stop is at The Stuffed Olive in Bridge Street. It serves irresistible salads and pastries, and you can buy picnic provisions in the deli. Propped up in front of me (of course!) is John Banville’s novel The Sea, from the independent Bantry Bookshop in William Street, the kind you long to escape to on a wet afternoon.

3PM TO THE LIGHTHOUSE
It’s time to venture out of town and get some exercise with an invigorating walk along Sheep’s Head Peninsula. Drive to Sheep’s Head Café on the N71 and R591 or catch bus number 255 (Saturdays only), and walk the route marked by blue arrows past Lough Akeen, heading for the lighthouse and views to the cliffs on Mizen Head. The path can be rough and wild (use OS map of Ireland Discovery 88), so allow two to three hours, arriving back at the café for tea and freshly baked apple pie.

Still on the peninsula, there’s another good café at Ahakista, run with the help of WWOOFers (Willing Workers on Organic Farms) who may also have cultivated the ingredients used in the recipes. Artist Annabel Langrish works here on her nature-inspired paintings; she also makes pots and carves driftwood, available to view and buy in the on-site Heron Gallery.

7PM SEAFOOD TO DIVE FOR
O’Connors Seafood Restaurant in Wolfe Tone Square is justly proud of its imaginative menu, dictated by the catch of the day. Their signature dish is monkfish and smoked venison risotto, the pots of mussels are legendary, and oysters are superb every month of the year. It’s small and bustling, so essential to book.

10PM TRADITIONAL IRISH MUSIC
I’ve been told that Ma’ Murphys in New Street is the place to go and, being Irish myself, I know that the fiddlers don’t turn up until 10pm at the earliest. It’s a great atmosphere and I enjoy chatting to the musicians about their songs over a Guinness. The Anchor Bar in New Street is also recommended for live music.

SUNDAY AM

11AM A DELI OF DELIGHTS
A 30-minute walk (or short drive) out of Bantry past the pony-trekking sign on the Killarney road takes you to Manning’s Emporium at Ballylickey. This is a must for brunch with the Sunday papers (on sale here) and a tasting of locally produced cheeses (Durrus, Cashel Blue, Gubbeen), relishes and cured meats. Even Cork can’t supply everything, however, so husband and wife team Andrew and Laura buy from across the globe, describing their café/deli/shop as ‘a window on the world as well as a showcase for the locality’. They have even found an Irish-owned vineyard in Mendoza, Argentina, where they source their popular El Commandante wine. I come away with a pack of Irish Atlantic Sea Salt and some very special cooking oils.

SUNDAY PM

3PM GARDEN BEAUTY
A little further along the N71 coastal road is the village of Glengarriff where I hop on the ferry to Garnish Island. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, it enjoys a microclimate that nurtures the planting schemes designed by Harold Peto. The Italian Gardens contain semi-tropical species and extravagant gestures such as an ornate classical temple. It’s a pleasure to wander around this small island, where an otherworldly atmosphere pervades. But don’t get too entranced – the last ferry leaves at 6pm!

WHERE TO STAY IN BANTRY:
Bantry House and Garden
A Georgian mansion with terraced gardens that stretch down to the bay. B&B rooms are in the elegant East Wing, overlooking the parterre. Open mid-April to end October; prices start from £138 per room per night, sharing bantryhouse.com.

Maritime Hotel
Four-star accommodation on The Quay with 110 bedrooms, many with views of the bay and the sea. Its spa has a 19-metre pool, sauna, Jacuzzi, gym and treatment rooms. Dine in the Ocean restaurant or informally in the bar. From £43 per person per night, sharing themaritime.ie.

Seamount Farm
A newly renovated farmhouse seven miles west of Bantry on the Sheep’s Head Peninsula, with great views of the bay, sea and mountains. The owners offer guided walks. From £26 per person per night, sharing seamountfarm.com.

HOW TO GET TO BANTRY:
Aer Lingus flies to Cork from several UK airports. Car hire is available from Cork Airport. The Wild Atlantic Way, the longest defined coastal touring route in the world, launched in April 2014. For more details visit aerlingus.com and ireland.com.