Alex Fisher talks to the Cornwall-based executive chef about his passions for food and the coastal village that has become his home
Originally from New Zealand, executive chef Jude Kereama’s award-winning restaurants have been attracting foodies to Cornwall’s Porthleven for 20 years. With a cooking style influenced by Cornish produce and his Maori, Chinese and Malaysian heritage, he has showcased his unique cuisine on Great British Menu and been awarded three AA Rosettes and a Michelin Bib Gourmand. We talk to him about love, loss and the beauty of a life lived on the coast.
Outside the much-lauded Kota, the first of two restaurants Jude has opened in Porthleven. Photography – Sam Breeze and James Ram
Moving to Cornwall
‘I first moved to Cornwall in 2004. My late wife, Jane, and I always knew that this was where we wanted to start a family. Jane’s parents were down here and we visited whenever we could. But it wasn’t until we stumbled upon Porthleven, entirely by chance, that we felt we’d found our place.
We were outbid on a venue in Padstow by Paul Ainsworth, then there were a few other places we considered, but we were at a Christmas drinks party when someone mentioned a restaurant lease becoming available in Porthleven. I’d never heard of the village, but a few days later, we drove down and I just thought, “Wow, this place is fantastic.” By April, we had packed up our lives in London and started afresh.
The chef in his element, cooking up a gourmet feast. Photography – Sam Breeze and James Ram
Community and belonging
My wife, Jane, was so kind and fun – she was loved by everyone. When she passed away five years ago, it was such a shock. I didn’t know what to do or how to move on. But the community here in Porthleven rallied around my son Joe and me in ways I’ll never forget. For weeks, our home was overflowing with flowers, cards, and even food, despite the fact I’m a chef myself. They showered us with love. It showed me what it was to be part of a community. If I was anywhere else, it would have been a very lonely time. If you live in London, none of your neighbours know you. Even now, when I’m out running along the coast path, I’ll wave to half the village – we all know each other. It’s a reminder of how special Porthleven is and why it’s my home.
‘Treasures of the Cornish larder’ feature on his menu, including oysters, John Dory, mackerel and fresh locally grown and foraged ingredients. Photography – Sam Breeze and James Ram
Giving back
I like to keep myself busy and do what I can to support local charities. This year, I plan to run the London Marathon in support of the Fishermen’s Mission. Although it’s a national organisation, this charity means a lot to my local community, which is a traditional fishing village. People don’t realise how much effort fishermen make to get fish onto our tables. It’s easy to take it for granted, but in fact, many fishermen lose their lives or their health doing their work, and it’s charities like the Fishermen’s Mission who are there to support the fishermen and their families when times are difficult. I’ve had a few injuries running, but I hope I will be fit and be able to raise both awareness and funds for them next year.
Jude credits his heritage with ‘bringing a touch of Asian influence’ to his innovative dishes. Photography – Sam Breeze and James Ram
My food philosophy
The variety of seafood in Cornwall is unparalleled – mackerel, lobsters, crab – and the produce from local organic farms is exceptional. My food philosophy is simple: celebrate what’s local and seasonal but don’t be afraid to innovate. My heritage brings a touch of Asian influence to the dishes, marrying bold flavours with the treasures of the Cornish larder.
Foraging has become a big part of our ethos, too. From mushrooms in nearby woods to sea vegetables plucked from the shoreline, it’s about using what’s around us. There’s a dish I created that featured on the Great British Menu, which was inspired by days spent rock-pooling with my son, gathering mussels and seaweed. It’s as much about storytelling and a lived experience as it is about flavour.
Jude with his talented team – he feels privileged to have been a part of Cornwall’s evolution into a world-class foodie destination. Photography – Sam Breeze and James Ram
Cornwall’s culinary revolution
When we opened our first restaurant, Cornwall wasn’t the foodie destination it is today. Fast-forward two decades, and the scene has transformed. The talent here now is phenomenal. It’s a privilege to have been part of that journey, watching Cornwall evolve into a world-class food destination. Today, it’s easier to find a great meal than a bad one. This shift has elevated us all, encouraging creativity and collaboration. And as I enter my twentieth year in the village, my own restaurant is evolving, too. I’m refurbishing Kota and will introduce a more relaxed style, serving Cornish Pinxos instead of a tasting menu – and a new chef is joining us at Kota Kai.
The chef has lived and worked in a friendly, supportive community by the sea for two decades, and has fully embraced the coastal life. Photography – Sam Breeze and James Ram
A life shaped by the sea
Once you live by the sea, you can’t move away. The countryside is gorgeous, but there is something about the sea that is mesmerising and relaxing. You can just stare at the ocean and it’s like a meditation. I’m lucky enough to have a great sea view from home so I spend a lot of time looking at the ocean. Running by the sea is essential for my well-being and my mental health. The sea also shapes my menu, how we look at food, and what we cook. Living by the coast is so much of what I love in life. The cleansing feel of a sea swim, the relaxation and meditation you get from watching the waves, and all the food we use. It’s a huge part of what defines me.’
To find our more about the refurbishment of Kota, call 01326 562407 or visit kotarestaurant.co.uk. For more about Kota Kai, call 01326 727707 or visit kotakai.co.uk.
