Professional chef Ross Geach turns to his farming heritage to cook up the perfect coastal feast. WORDS: JULIA HUGHES
It was as a 13-year-old up to his elbows in washing suds, that Ross Geach realised his love for north Cornwall ran deeper than just fuelling a daily diet of surfing and fishing.
He was washing dishes for Rick Stein in Padstow’s legendary The Seafood Restaurant and was transfixed by the fishermen who arrived in the harbour and by the chefs who transformed their catch into incredible food. It was here that Ross fell in love with flavour; a love that fuelled him to go to food college and return to Rick Stein in chef whites. Quickly moving up the ranks and working across all of Stein’s outlets, Ross was head chef at Rick Stein’s Cafe by the age of 24.
Today, Ross is as progressive in Padstow’s food scene as Rick Stein himself. The founder of Padstow Kitchen Garden, people travel across the South West and beyond to grab a space at his culinary feasts – rustic affairs on Ross’ family farm with views across Padstow Estuary.
Huge tables adorned with local wild flowers are strewn together under the shelter of a polytunnel and a three- or four-course meal is served up to diners who quickly become friends. Each feast is different and all about seasonal produce with zero mile menus celebrating everything field to fork.
Ross says: “Menus are inspired by the season; the veg available from our kitchen garden and our bounty-laden doorstep. Our feasts are about coming along and having a brilliant meal in fantastic company with beautiful coastal views – while also learning about seasonality and sustainability. We want all diners to go home with a better understanding of how we can work with food to care for the environment.
“Everything is cooked outdoors on a Big Green Egg or fire pit, giving a delicious smoky flavour and a touch of theatre.”
Ross is the seventh generation custodian of Trerethern Farm. The Geach family have lived and worked on the farm for over 150 years, which has enabled Ross to master his craft and absorb the wisdom and knowledge of his relations. Alongside feasts, Padstow Kitchen Garden also supplies award-winning produce to some of Cornwall’s finest restaurants, pubs and hotels.
Ross continues: “My grandfather taught me how to grow vegetables and my experience as a chef means I know what restaurants need to be successful. It has been 15 years since I turned a small corner of our 105-acre farm into an allotment and started marrying cheffing with farming.
“Lots of learning, reading and experimenting later, Padstow Kitchen Garden is now seven thriving acres. We also have a small herd of rare breed, large black Cornish pigs and are looking to introduce sheep. We don’t want to go big though – it’s all about producing meat for our feasts and pop-up events. We want to stay niche and nurture rather than take from the land.”
Ross also runs a range of workshops from his coastal farm, providing hands-on learning in everything from cooking over fire with a Big Green Egg to sowing seeds.
