Alex Fisher eats at The Set, Brighton, Sussex
WHET MY APPETITE
A restaurant run by dedicated foodies, this fairly new addition to Brighton’s burgeoning food scene is superb. Operating inside the beautiful Artist Residence Hotel, the décor is stylish and laid-back and the menu truly creative and surprising. A visit here makes for a really fun night out. If you want to eat out in Brighton, this is right at the top of my list.
WHAT’S ON THE MENU?
When you have a talented head-chef, a set menu is the best way to really experience their creativity. Although you can mix and match dishes if you like, The Set basically offers three seasonal set menus of four courses. Having started with mushroom, miso and marjoram, my next course was delicately cooked mackerel with cauliflower and capers, followed by oxtail, toast, shallot and baby gem. My dessert of blackberry, lemon and chervil was packed full of zesty flavours, which exploded in my mouth with each bite. Just sublime.
HOW’S THE MOOD?
Friendly, trendy and relaxed. Watch the chefs prepare your food in the open kitchen as well-informed waiting staff bring around surprise courses and welcome drinks.
CAN I SEE THE SEA?
The Set is located on Regency Square, where you have a great view of the new i360.
WHAT’S THE DAMAGE?
Meals are priced per ‘set’ of four courses. These range from around £31 to £36. If you’re going to drink, I really recommend choosing the paired drinks menu, which is excellent, and priced at a reasonable £24.
OPENING TIMES:
12.30pm to 10pm Monday-Saturday, 1pm to 5pm Sundays.
The Set, 33 Regency Square, Brighton BN1 2GG (01273 855572, thesetrestaurant.com)
For more restaurant reviews, check out our food and drink section or pick up a copy of the magazine.
For more restaurant reviews, check out our food and drink section or pick up a copy of the magazine.
