Home to 30 miles of crowd-free sandy shores, history-filled islands and an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, England’s most northerly county of Northumberland is a magnet for those who love nature, history and an away-from-it-all vibe, says LUCY McGUIRE.
Northumberland Coast Path
Stretching some 62 miles between Cresswell in the south and Berwick-upon-Tweed in the north, the Northumberland Coast Path acts as a showreel of the coast’s picturesque seaboard. The 7.7-mile section between Craster and Low Newton is especially lovely, especially if celebrated with a pint at The Ship Inn on completion. There are also sections featuring the dunes and mudflats of Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve while the 11-mile Seahouses to Belford route features the Grade I-listed Bamburgh Castle. northumberlandcoastpath.org
Cycling by coast and castles
If you like exploring on two wheels, pedal your way along some of the 192-mile-long Coast and Castles South cycle route, which features 85 miles of Northumberland’s coast. As its name suggests, the route takes in historical castles (and castle ruins) at Warkworth, Bamburgh and Dunstanburgh and the route is mostly free of any calf-aching inclines. You’ll simultaneously be ticking off some of the official North Sea Cycle Route (also called EuroVelo 12) which crosses six European countries.
Seafood and botanicals
Whether you plump for buttery lobster or hearty seafood chowder, the mouth-watering dishes at The Potted Lobster, which peeks out to Bamburgh Castle, won’t disappoint (open daily, noon-9). Tuck into dressed crab or go all out with a seafood-sharing platter (featuring Lindisfarne Oysters) at The Old Boat House in Amble (open daily, 10-9). Or tuck into beer-battered cod and chips at the rustic Fish Shack, which affords fantastic views in the same town (open daily, noon-8) thepottedlobster.co.uk, boathousefoodgroup.co.uk
Cruise The Farne Islands
Pack the binoculars and take a boat trip from Seahouses to the Farne Islands to seek out their bountiful wildlife. They’re home to one of the UK’s largest puffin colonies (often nicknamed ‘tommy noddies’ here) which throng during the summer breeding season, as well as Artic terns, guillemots and Atlantic grey seals. Book a sunset cruise and see the islands cast a striking silhouette against amber skies (May-Sept, from £25pp). farneislandstours.co.uk
Surf retreats
Feel invigorated by the North Sea swell by taking a lesson with Surf Northumberland, a family-run surf school. Owner Sally Cook has ridden the ocean waves in places as far-flung as Brazil and now runs year-round lessons from the beaches between Cresswell and Bamburgh. All equipment is provided in her bespoke group (£35pp) and one-to-one (£65) sessions, suited for all abilities and ages. Her Mind Waves Retreat (£60pp) combines surfing with stretching, mindfulness and meditation. surfnorthumberland.co.uk
Bird spotting
The Northumberland coast is a magnet for birdwatchers, thanks to its huge populations of nesting and migratory seabirds. And alongside the popular Farne Islands boat trips, you can also sail around the RSPB-managed Coquet Island to see its summer-nesting puffins, fulmars, and rare roseate terns. Meanwhile, during the colder months, the mudflats of Budle Bay, part of the Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve, attract huge flocks of pink-footed geese and other wintering waterfowl. puffincruises.co.uk
Holy Island’s castle and priory
This tidal island, also known as Lindisfarne, is imbued with history: its priory and – now ruined – monastery were built by 7th-century monks (one of whom wrote The Lindisfarne Gospels, now housed in the British Library). And its National Trust-owned castle (open March-Nov) was originally built during the Scottish Wars. Cross its dramatic causeway to the English Heritage-owned priory and museum and learn about the Viking raids and saintly miracles that are etched in this island’s past. Top tip: check the tide times before your visit and sample the famous mead at St Aidan’s Winery. visitlindisfarne.com
Alnmouth
There’s much to love about Alnmouth; its pastel-shaded houses, its cobbled streets and its two-mile sandy beach. It’s a great base, too, for exploring Alnwick (ten minutes inland), with its unique gardens, family-friendly Lilidorei attraction and castle that posed as Harry Potter’s Hogwarts. For Alnmouth’s history, visit the Ferryman’s Hut (free entry), a strong contender for Britain’s smallest museum. Tip: Check into The Whittling House, a stylish stay with excellent food. Alnwickgarden.com, lilidoreialnwick.co.uk, alnwickcastle.com, thewhittlinghouse.co.uk
Stargazing
Many stargazers have heard of the Northumberland International Dark Sky Park and the revered Kielder Observatory. But it’s possible to enjoy some of the region’s finest views of the night skies from the coast, too. Head to Embleton Quarry, a Northumberland Coast AONB Dark Sky Site that’s accessible on foot and has stargazing opportunities that are often on a par with the revered site found some 60 miles inland. The site of a former whinstone quarry, this now wildlife-rich site is a great place for daytime walks, too. facebook.com/embletonquarrynr
Lindisfarne Festival
With 100-plus musical artists spread across eight stages and Holy Island as its backdrop, Lindisfarne Festival (Aug 29-Sept 1) is hailed as the ‘ultimate end-of-summer party.’ Located on Beal Farm, the headline acts for this year’s musical and cultural event include Tom Walker and De La Soul. It also promises walkabout entertainers, comedy, poetry, yoga, meditation and, hopefully, some good weather. lindisfarnefestival.com
