A vibrant university town, the seat of Welsh culture and a Victorian seaside honeypot, a weekend is barely enough to accommodate the delights of Aberystwyth, writes KIRSTIE NEWTON.

Aberystwyth is one of those charming Victorian seaside resorts you find at the end of branch railway lines, perfect for a day out if you live near enough, but even better for a weekend – and you’d better make it a long one, since there’s so much to do. They don’t call it the cultural capital of Wales for nothing.

I’ve been to Aberystwyth more times than I can count. My other half studied at the university in the 1980s, and has fond memories of milk bars and high jinks: the time his friend went to court for plucking a single daff from a prized floral display after a night out, for example, or the many occasions the town’s solitary cash machine was glued shut in protest at the lack of instructions in Welsh (the nearest alternative involved a 50-mile round trip to Lampeter).

Four decades later, everything is in Welsh, and who uses cash? But Aberystwyth’s appeal lives on. We drop in regularly to visit old friends, but they are really just a handy excuse to enjoy everything the town has to offer.

When American conductor Marin Alsop credited Aberystwyth at the Last Night of the Proms, she was so pleased with her pronunciation, she named it twice. In fact, it’s not that hard – split into two parts, it means “mouth of (aber) the River Ystwyth”. Failing that, you could do like the locals, who simply call it “Aber” for short.

The university opened its doors in 1872 in the Old College, a former hotel building on the seafront, and became a founding member of the University of Wales 20 years later. Its main campus is now on Penglais Hill, and draws students from all over the UK. The Grade 1 listed Old College still dominates, however, and is set for a new chapter as both a cultural centre for the community and Aberystwyth’s only four-star hotel. It’s scheduled to open in 2026.

You should absolutely start your west Wales break on the promenade. Tradition dictates that you should walk the entire length from the lifeboat station, past the scenic ruins of the 13th-century castle and the busy Victorian pier, to the bottom of Constitution Hill where you must “kick the bar” for good luck. There are several theories for the origin of this superstition, from the future Edward VII pausing here to tie his shoelace, to the presence of the gallows and the need to ward off evil spirits. Either way, “kicking the bar” also ensures you will return to Aber, and that can’t be a bad thing.

Since you’re here, ascend Constitution Hill, home to Britain’s longest electric funicular cliff railway, which opened in 1896. Following a major refurb, this is now fully accessible, with wheelchair-friendly trains, lift access and pathways across the summit. There you’ll find sweeping views of the bay (wrap up warm – it’s windy up top); miniature golf, and the biggest Camera Obscura in the world (they don’t do things by half in Aber), the 14-inch lens offering views of more than 1,000 square miles of land and seascape (open March to October).

Savour the magnificent views down to Aberystwyth and Cardigan Bay, then head back to the prom – either by funicular or on foot (it’s much easier going down) – and aim for the Royal Pier. This was the first pleasure pier to open in Wales in 1865, and the present management describes it as a “one-stop destination for food, drinks, competitive socialising and family fun”. The latter comes courtesy of the amusement arcade, which is brimming with the likes of Space Invaders, coin pushers, air hockey and tenpin bowling. Prepare to lose at least an hour and a small fortune here, then fuel up on fish and chips.

Aberystwyth has two dark sandy beaches: North is popular with families while South is quieter and patronised by experienced surfers and body boarders. Both are lifeguarded daily during the summer holidays between 10am and 6pm. In the winter, the prom is a fantastic place to witness a starling murmuration.

Wander into town, and you’ll find plentiful independent shops, from books and Welsh culture to fashion and antiques – ideal for an afternoon’s browsing – and the Amgueddfa Ceredigion Museum. Housed in the Edwardian Coliseum theatre, its collection illustrates the varied heritage of the county of Ceredigion from the Neolithic period to the 1970s. It’s full of surprises, not least a recent collaboration with the British Museum. The tourist information centre is also here, and is the place to come for a warm welcome and helpful recommendations.

Further out near the university campus, the National Library of Wales is a legal deposit library brimming with archives, manuscripts, drawings, photographs, maps, audio and film material – make an appointment to see something specific, or drop in for a special event. Trysorau (Treasures) is a permanent exhibition showcasing items chosen from the collection for their part in the story of Wales.

In the evening, the choice is yours. Bath Street is home to both the independent single-screen Commodore Cinema, which opened in 1976 and retains a certain retro charm, including selling refreshments from a little hatch in the auditorium. It’s had a recent refurb and is extending its offer to include special events, music and quiz nights.

General manager Matthew Sole came to the university in 2017 from Romford in Essex, and stayed. “I love nature, and Aber has so much: the mountains, the river and the sea,” he says. “The town has a unique feeling to it – there’s something very special here, and a really nice community too.”

You’ll find Theatr Arad Goch in a converted chapel opposite – as well as running a touring company working with children and young people, it welcomes community and student groups to perform in its space, in Welsh, English and a combination of the two. Pop into reception to find out if anything’s on during your stay. Another vibrant little venue is Bank Vault in New Street, offering music, poetry, storytelling and art.

The Aberystwyth Arts Centre can be found on the main university campus, and is a big hitter for a town of its size. Once, we took a punt on the opening night of the summer MusicFest, and had our minds blown by a collaboration between Welsh harpist (and festival curator) Catrin Finch and Grammy-nominated Colombian band Cimarrón.

On day two, I’d urge you to explore Aberystwyth’s surroundings. A good place to start is the railway station, which opened in 1863 and as a mainline to the Midlands was key to the town’s development as a thriving coastal resort. Its beautiful façade won the National Railway Heritage Award in 2003.

The station also serves the Vale of Rheidol Railway, a 12-mile narrow-gauge steam heritage track through the glorious Ceredigion countryside. At its terminus is Pontarfynach, a jumble of three stacked bridges constructed hundreds of years apart. Its Welsh name translates as a prosaic “bridge over the River Mynach”; more intriguing is its English moniker, Devil’s Bridge, alluding to yet another legend in which an old lady outwits Lucifer himself.

The spectacular waterfall here charmed no less than Wordsworth, and there are woodland walks aplenty. A recent addition is the muesum, home to an extensive collection of historical narrow-gauge locomotives and included in your ticket price.

Alternatively, travel a couple of stations along the mainline to Borth. The village itself is modest, but there is plenty to see here: its sandy beach is popular, and if you time it right, you might be lucky enough to see the remains of a submerged forest at low tide; radiocarbon dating suggests the trees date from about 1500 BCE. Legend has it that this is all that remains of Cantre’r Gwaelod, a legendary ancient sunken kingdom in Cardigan Bay.

There is some beautiful and fascinating countryside here, from the sand dunes at Ynyslas to the raised peat bog of Cors Fochno, both part of the Dyfi UNESCO biosphere reserve. On a fine day, the walk back to Aberystwyth along the coastal path is just superb, especially on a summer’s evening as the sun goes down.

In the other direction from Aber is the colourful harbour village of Aberaeron. This is the place to come for fresh fish and seafood, or stroll around the 18th-century country estate of Llanerchaeron (National Trust), with its working organic farm featuring Welsh black cattle.

Whatever you choose to do, I guarantee you’ll be desperate to come back – especially if you kicked the bar.

WHERE TO EAT

Aberystwyth is a cosmopolitan melting pot of world cuisines, with a veritable A to Z to choose from.

  • Medina is a popular choice with its Ottolenghi-inspired Mediterranean fare – so much so, it’s just moved to larger premises in in Queen Street.
  • Ultracomida in Pier Street describes itself as a “vinoteca”, serving Spanish wines with a deli-based menu.
  • Try Baravin on Marine Terrace for pizza and pasta.
  • For Caribbean vibes, head to Portland Road and Mama Fay’s (it’s named after the chef’s mum).
  • Arabic Flavour is the first Arabic/Greek family run restaurant in Aberystwyth, and drew praise from Observer food critic Jay Rayner.
  • Veggies should head for the award-winning Dragonfly Bistro in St James’ Square.
  • For drinks, Ty Seidr in Corporation Street offers more than 100 craft ciders, ales and board games to its patrons.
  • The Ship and Castle is CAMRA-listed and a popular venue to watch Six Nations rugby.

WHERE TO STAY

  • The charmingly named Nanteos Mansion (from nant ‘brook’ and eos ‘nightingale’) is a Grade 1 listed country house hotel with gardens of historic national interest (take afternoon tea here at the very least).
  • The Grade 1 listed Old College is undergoing a major transformation that will include Aberystwyth’s only four-star hotel, scheduled to open in 2026.
  • There are plenty of Victorian seaside hotels; of particular note are Gwesty Richmond, set in a 1840s merchant house; Gwesty Marine, run by the third generation of its family owners and boasting basement spa facilities; and the Glengower, a pub with rooms.
  • Park Lodge, on the edge of town, has plenty of parking, including a bank of Tesla charging points.
  • Looking for somewhere quirky? The apartment above Aberystywth Cliff Railway’s ticket office is available as a holiday let via cottages.com.

FESTIVAL TOWN

Aberystwyth has a buzzing events calendar. Here are just some of the things you can do:

  • March 1 is St David’s Day, the Welsh National Day, and is celebrated with a parade with plenty of fancy dress. Expect dragons and formidable Welsh ladies, “twmpath” (folk dancing) and lashings of cawl (Welsh meat and vegetable broth) to warm the cockles.
  • Aberystwyth is a great place to have your funny bone tickled. There’s a monthly comedy club at the Arts Centre during term-time – Miles Jupp, Alfie Moore and Chris McCausland are all booked in for spring 2025; and a full-on festival from October 3 to 5 at venues across the town – first to call is Stewart Lee vs the Man Wulf at the Arts Centre on October 3.
  • Aberystwyth is making a bid to become a UNESCO City of Literature, and one genre it excels in is crime. Fans of the TV drama Y Gwyll (Hinterland) or Malcolm Pryce’s series of novels dubbed “Aberystwyth Noir” will love Crime Cymru (April 25 to 27), a volunteer-led festival run by the Welsh Crime Writing Collective. It even offers a £1,000 prize for a debut crime novel.
  • Aberystwyth Poetry Festival (June 6 to 8) features readings, interviews, talks, discussions, signings, workshops and a poetry competition.
  • International Ceramic Festival, June 27 to 29, Aberystwyth Arts Centre. Offering lectures, practical demonstrations and special exhibitions since 1987.
  • Musicfest has confirmed 2025 dates (July 28 to August 2), but the programme is still under wraps.