With an ancient port and an eclectic mix of antique-filled shops and stone circles, Newport is a coastal retreat unlike any other, says Jade Braham…
Tucked beneath the dark contours of Carningli Mountain, a 450-million-year-old hill with many Iron Age structures, the unassuming village of Newport is flanked by mountains, several beaches, and an estuary, highlighting its position in one of the most beautiful parts of Pembrokeshire’s National Park.
Thanks to its geological uniqueness, Newport is a village split in two with dual personalities. One half of the town is centred along the A487, where a creative spirit and an unbreakable community bond thrives in tandem with a bustling high street brimming with shops and a momentous castle.
A short drive, or an easy mile’s walk, downhill from the town’s centre, you come to The Parrog. Here, you’ll find whitewashed stone cottages with vibrant red letterboxes built into their façade, makeshift swings tied between two tree trunks, dog walkers braving the coastal gale and fishing boats bobbing quietly on the shallow waters opposite Newport Boat Club (newportboatclub.co.uk).
In this part of Newport, it feels like stepping back to an era where beaches were quiet and uncrowded. Little wonder the town has been described as a ‘classier, quieter Tenby’!
Beach delights
Having opted to drive to The Parrog, I park by a lime kiln, now disappearing from existence by an unruly and ever-growing foliage. Next door is a burner’s cottage, a Grade II-listed building sporting a hue of pastel-red that looks like it was drawn by crayon.
Built into the harbour wall, this slate-roof building guides around several other slanting stone cottages, opening to a walkway with endless views of the thrashing sea and undulating shades of green, brown, and purple, marking Dinas Head.
You can journey along the coastal path to the Witches’ Cauldron, which is a collapsed crater holding iridescent blue-green water, rumoured to be home to a sea witch who consumes solitary adventurers.
There are many inviting picnic benches at The Parrog. I imagine these are ideal for soaking up the sun in summertime, but today, they’re as forgotten as the lime kiln. Around, a cacophony of sounds erupts. Birdsong fades into shuddering leaves. There’s barking on the beach from bickering dogs, followed by the panicked screams of their owners.
But the most deafening sound is the ocean, reminding us that Newport is a settlement defined by its ability to survive and work with the mighty sea.
For centuries, Newport has been a significant player in Pembrokeshire’s history, starting as a place where Middle Stone Age people chipped flint to make tools for fishing or hunting on the Nevern River. This later became known as Trefdraeth (a town by the beach), which gave Newport its name today.
The village rose to fame around 1197, when the Norman, William FitzMartin, founded the town and built the castle. It quickly became the new capital of the Marcher Lordship of Cemais. The port successfully traded wool, and when the quay was built around 1566, it brought trade from Ireland, Bristol, and North Wales.
Today, only sailing boats are moored here and they’re a pretty photo opportunity, as are the cottages lining the A487.
Independent high-street
I ascend to Newport’s high street, my eye drawn to the heaps of agricultural and maritime adornments. It seems everything about the community is synonymous with its coastal position.
Whitewashed buildings are interspersed with colourful dwellings whose windows bear scarecrow toys, lighthouse-style lamps, and woollen sheep figures. Galleries, like The Gallery Yr Oriel (thegallery-yroriel.com), present statues of windswept women and cottage paintings. Neighbours are chatting over garden fences, warmly greeting me as I walk by, and it’s no different to the friendly smiles upon entering the independent shops.
A highlight is the Carningli Centre (carninglicentre.com), a rabbit-warren-like establishment with a musty scent of well-thumbed books. The shelves are overwhelmed with stacks of tomes, piled high and hanging perilously, vying for room alongside a plethora of artifacts such as 19th-century lanterns and farming implements. It feels like stepping into a hoarder’s kingdom but offers a fascinating insight into Newport’s past, present and future.
Another favourite is Ty Twt (dollshouseandtoymuseum.org.uk), a twee museum with doll houses from 1840 to the present. Glyn Davies & Sons Butchers displays fresh produce outside their storefront, some of which look too good not to eat!
Pub perfection
But it’s not just the shops that have got locals and visitors raving. Back on the main road, a prominent 19th-century, traditional stone building with green window frames and a grand portico entrance piques my interest.
This is The Castle Inn, and while the exterior is unmissably impressive, the inside combines a homely and party atmosphere. The property has three boutique bedrooms, while the bar is traditionally wood panelled with an open fire and wall decorations.
The garden, with its brick-paved floor, large wooden booths, and multi-coloured bunting, is where we end the day, devouring a homemade chicken tandoori masala while learning how the food is homemade with ingredients locally sourced.
Country charms
The next day, the morning sunlight slips through my curtains at an ungodly hour, and I’m up and out before the high street stretches awake. It’s a day for history, starting with a gentle mosey up Market Street towards the late 13th-century Norman castle perched above the village. Only at the top of the hill do I realise the castle has been privately owned for quite some time.
At the crossroads, I venture left only to find further evidence of Newport’s Norman heritage. A 13th-century church with sweeping views. I enjoy exploring its interior, marvelling at the medieval font and holy water stoup. But the stained-glass windows leave me speechless – I did not expect to see such craftsmanship and elegance in a country parish.
Historic marvels
Surprises are the theme of the day because back on the high street I notice a simple aluminium archway next to the Memorial Hall. The etching ‘step back in time’ propels me onwards, where I find the site of a wonderfully intact medieval kiln.
The rudimentary structure indicates a busy medieval pottery industry, while at the other end of the village, occupying a small green field set within a housing complex, is the Carreg Coetan Arthur Burial Chamber.
A large capstone balances four upright stones, while the grass beneath my feet presumably conceals more archaeological evidence. One theory is that Carreg Coetan served as a burial cairn for ancient communities, as excavations have found cremated human bones, Neolithic pottery, and stone tools.
As my weekend in Newport draws to a close, I drive a short distance to Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber, a 5,000-year-old Neolithic monument perched at the foot of the Preseli Hills. This structure has been on my travel bucket list for years. However, if you’re keen on delving into the area’s ancient history, a visit to the nearby Castell Henllys Iron Age Village (pembrokeshirecoast.wales/castell-henllys) offers a more enriching experience. It stands as the sole reconstructed Iron Age village, faithfully restored to its original location from 2,000 years ago.
However, as I stand amidst the awe-inspiring presence of Pentre Ifan’s towering standing stones, delicately bearing the weight of an even larger capstone spanning 16½ feet, I’m struck by the richness of Newport’s offerings. It’s not just a prime coastal destination; it’s a treasure trove of culture and history that leaves you pondering, ‘What more awaits exploration?’ and eagerly asking, ‘When can I return?’
Where to stay
- The Castle Inn, a traditional 19th-century building, has a homely feel, with a roaring fireplace and an open invitation for furry companions to join their owners in the bar. (01239 820 742, castleinnpembs.co.uk).
- Llys Meddyg Hotel & Restaurant has luxurious bedrooms boasting local artwork. The hotel is within walking distance of the town’s main high street. (01239 820008, llysmeddyg.com).
- The Golden Lion, a 17th-cenutry pub located on the high street and it’s only a short walk from Parrog Beach. It boasts 13 en-suite rooms. (01239 820 321, goldenlionpembrokeshire.co.uk).
